Sheffield Round Walk - Face To Face With History

Exploring the Sheffield Round Walk: Gleadless Valley to Meersbrook and along Brincliffe Edge.

On a warm and pleasant Sunday afternoon in late August 2015, I found myself halfway through the final two sections of the Sheffield Round Walk. I had spent the morning walking along the Sheaf Valley, through the ancient woodland around Beauchief Abbey, before abruptly emerging back into the modern world at Meadowhead. The congested traffic, motionless in a cloud of their own exhaust fumes, sat in the heat and glare of the bright sunshine. I decided to take advantage of the nearby supermarket to buy some refreshment, use the toilet facilities and to take stock of my progress.

The trusty green acorn signpost of the Round Walk.

I crossed the Meadowhead road and entered the welcoming cool shade of the trees on the edge of Graves Park. I followed the tarmacked footpath while finishing off the last mouthfuls of my sandwich, taking care to dispose of the packaging in the litter bin as I passed it. The footpath forked in front of me and I continued for a few metres or so before realising that I had taken the wrong turn. Retracing my steps back to the litter bin, I surprised a squirrel, catching the cheeky critter in the act of dragging my sandwich wrapper out of the bin. Caught red-handed, he stared at me for a moment before discarding his prize and strolling off as if to say " I didn't want it any way". 

A cheeky squirrel caught in the act of littering.

After disposing of my litter for the second time, I followed the path deeper into the wood; hidden away from the busy main road the trees covered a number of small gorges which gradually gave way to a pleasant walk through dense undergrowth.

The woodland on the periphery of Graves Park. 

The footpath led out into a huge expanse of open space, filled with families picnicking, playing and enjoying the facilities which included bouncy castles and the Graves Park Animal Farm. It was nice to see so many people making the most of the park but I still had a lot of distance to cover so I decided to push on and turned away from the boisterous, happy crowds.

Graves Park is Sheffield's largest public park and consists of over 200 acres of grassed parkland bordered by woodland. Some of the park's features include the city farm already mentioned, as well as sport and recreation facilities including tennis courts, bowling greens and miniature golf. The land on which the park is sited, has a long history and was originally part of the Norton Estate, centered around Norton Hall. The estate predates the Norman Conquest and was first recorded in the year 1002 in the last will and testament of a local landowner. It's interesting to note that one of the many subsequent landowners was none other than Robert FitzRanulph, Lord of Alfreton. The man who donated land for the foundation of Beauchief Abbey in 1176, mentioned in the previous blog post!

Footpaths in the woodland bordering Graves Park.

Norton Hall is located at the edge of the park today, now converted into private apartments and was built in 1815 along with 200 acres of parkland; it is thought to be the third Hall built on that site. In 1925 the Hall was donated for the use as a hospital and continued to be used in that capacity until 1989. The Norton Estate lands were broken up and sold at the time of the donation of the Hall. Between 1925 and 1935, sections of this land were bought by Councillor John George Graves (1866 - 1945) and gifted to the City to be used as a public park. Councillor Graves was one of Sheffield's most generous benefactors and served as Lord Mayor in 1926; an entrepreneur who helped found the Central Library and art galleries with his private collection of 700 paintings plus the donation of land across Sheffield. The park is named in his honour.

Graves Park -  all this open public space in the midst of a large modern city.

Continuing on my way through Graves Park, I paused for a moment to take in the amazing panorama. I found it hard to believe I was in the middle of a city. The boundary of the park marked the end of section three of the Sheffield Round Walk and soon I would be covering the forth and final section. The footpath led me to the park's entrance on a road called Bunting Nook, which despite the charming name was a little less than picturesque after the glory of the parkland and for once there was no cheerful green acorn signpost to guide me. Consulting the guide book, I made my way along Hemsworth Road and turned down a residential street called Ashbury Lane; there seemed a conspicuous absence of waymarks or signposts along this stretch. The lane ended in what looked like a private drive, where I hesitated for a while. After further consultation with the guide, I decided the only way to go was forward. Expecting to be confronted by irate homeowners I headed down the cul-de-sac where, much to my relief, I was greeted by an acorn signpost standing proudly against an overcast sky. I must have been in an uncharitable frame of mind, because it was my suspicion that the signposts had been deliberately removed.

Overlooking the Gleadless Valley at the start of the final section of the walk.

I decided to take a moment to get my bearings and take in the surrounding views of the Gleadless Valley, which is made up of a number of rolling hillsides, more golf courses and surviving pockets of trees, the remains of nine individual ancient woodlands. This section of the Round Walk, more than any other, bore the signs of mistreatment. The dusty track along which I walked clearly suffered from fly-tippers, that is, the illegal dumping of waste. Posted periodically in prominent places were notices informing me that the area was under constant Police supervision. I did not feel reassured.

Hedge Bindweed Calystegia sepium.

The hedgerows and woodland on either side of the footpath between Lees Hall golf course still bloomed with wild flowers, although now they competed with empty cans of high strength lager, which had been carelessly discarded. Gleadless had remained mostly agricultural up until the 1920's when it became part of Sheffield. One of the many casualties during the development of the area was the demolition of the substantial manor house called Lees Hall in 1957. Little evidence of the building remain today, although it was believed to have been over 500 years old and according to tradition, Mary Queen of Scots sought refuge there while under the care of George Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury. Mary was regarded as a potential threat by Queen Elizabeth I, her cousin once removed, who had Mary imprisoned at Sheffield Castle and Sheffield Manor for 14 years between 1570 and 1584. Local legends also describe underground tunnels connecting Lees Hall and Beauchief Abbey.

The footpath as it passes Lees Hall golf course.

The footpath continued down a long but gentle descent towards Meersbrook allotments. Signposts and waymarks clearly marked the route but each one was bent out of shape or covered in graffiti. Presently the route emerged from the trees and I found myself once again walking down residential streets. Lees Hall Avenue bordered the allotments and as I walked, a fine view of the city to the north made up for the less than scenic surroundings. Within a short time, a fine timber-framed cottage came into view and announced my arrival at Meersbrook Park. The building was open to visitors and although a little pushed for time, I decided to stop and investigate.

Bishops' House - one of three surviving timber-framed buildings in Sheffield.

Bishops' House is one of only three surviving timber-framed buildings in Sheffield and is thought to date from the early 1500's although not in it's current form. Built as a large farmhouse or small manor house, as it stands now, the building is a result of alterations over the centuries by previous owners; land on which the house is situated was owned and farmed by the Blythe family from 1377 to 1757.

The Great Parlour - usage of the room changed over the years from a private living space to a dining room where the best silver was stored, as it is decorated today.

Originally built to a basic medieval plan, the house consisted of a parlour and buttery (a buttery is where barrels or butts of beer were stored). Adjacent to these were the the hall and kitchen. The hall would have been the main public living space where people ate, entertained guests and conducted business. A second floor made up of two small chambers, was located above the parlour.

'W.B 1621' wood paneling in the hall.

Wooden paneling in the hall today bears the carving seen above and refers to William Blythe, the first owner to be recorded in direct connection with the house, rather than the land around it generally. During the 1600's the house was made more comfortable with the addition of windows and fireplaces and two additional rooms above the hall and kitchen.

A bedroom furnished as mentioned in the inventories from the 1600's.

William's son, also called William, was Captain in the Parliamentary Army during the English Civil War. He improved the house still further, embellishing new rooms with decorative plaster and timber from the demolition of Sheffield Castle. Captain William Blythe was reportedly one of the two officers assigned to take charge of the demolition and it is recorded he paid £3 for his salvage, a considerable sum at the time. The Blythe family lost ownership of Bishops' House in 1757 and it was leased to tenant farmers. In 1886 having passed through a further number of owners, the house and land, including the nearby Meersbrook Hall, were bought by Sheffield City Council for the creation of Meersbrook Park. For a time the house was used as accommodation for the park's Recreation Department employees, however, after restoration the building was opened as a museum in 1976.

Hand embroidered gloves from 1657; one of the many interesting displays in Bishops' House.

In 2011 a volunteer organisation, Friends of Bishops' House, became responsible for managing the opening of the house to the public. I can attest to the warm, friendly welcome visitors receive from the volunteers who dazzled me with their enthusiasm and knowledge of Sheffield's history.

All objects from the 1640's and the English Civil War.

I was delighted to find Bishops' House a treasure trove of history in the city. Suddenly the past wasn't a distant subject in a book but something I could experience and walk through. In a display case upstairs I encountered something (or someone!) that gave me goosebumps. I came face to face with a man who played a central role in the English Civil War as the leader of the Parliamentary forces, Oliver Cromwell. Behind the glass was a copy of his death-mask. According to the information panel, it was common for likenesses of important people to be preserved in wax or plaster casts.

Face to Face with History. Oliver Cromwell 1599 - 1658.

Absolutely wonderful and highly recommended. I can't praise Bishops' House and the volunteers highly enough. I certainly plan on making another visit in the future and devoting more time to looking around.

Another interesting display case. 

Whilst investigating Bishops' House, I discovered one of the limitations of using a prime lens on my camera. At 25mm (50mm full frame equivalent) the field of view was too tight for interior spaces. I had to stand with my back against the furthest wall to try to fit a room in the frame and I actually had to photograph the bedroom from outside in the hallway.

View of Bishops' House from the entrance into Meersbrook Park.

Reluctantly, I pulled myself away from Bishops' House. I was close to the final stretch of the Round Walk and I was starting to feel a little weary. Meersbrook Park is a pleasant walk and offers an amazing view of the city. A bench was situated perfectly for me to enjoy the view while finishing off the last of my refreshments. A public information board nearby, revealed yet another amazing little fact about this corner of Sheffield.

A panorama of Sheffield, from Meersbrook Park.

This view had been previously enjoyed by Turner, the famous Romanticist landscape painter. Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775 - 1851) was known for his oil painting but is also regarded as one of the masters of British watercolour landscape painting. Called "the master of light" he is seen as the Romantic preface to Impressionism. He visited Sheffield very early in his career and painted this view in 1797 for an illustration to be used in a magazine.

Painted by J.M.W. Turner in 1797. © Sheffield City Council. 

Hoisting my rucksack onto my shoulders, I set off and walked down the steep hill toward the gates on Meersbrook Park Road. I knew from having walked this route a few years previously and from having lived in the area, that this final section would be the least attractive. I decided to keep my camera in my bag so I could walk faster and also so not to draw to much attention to myself.

The road came out onto Chesterfield Road and I crossed over, following route as it wound its way under a train bridge, before skirting a large industrial estate. By now I was no longer sauntering along enjoying the sights and sounds but instead pushing the pace to cover ground, over Abbeydale Road South and into the densely packed terrace houses that led up the hill to Brincliffe Edge. Brincliffe Edge Woods are a sliver of trees clinging to a steep and sometimes all but vertical hillside. I once lived in the nearby Nether Edge area of Sheffield and knew the surrounding streets fairly well, including Chelsea Park, an inviting patch of greenery in the least picturesque section of the Sheffield Round Walk.

Chelsea Park: a pleasant respite from the streets and terraced houses.

The end of the walk was close and perhaps I was not doing justice to this section, tired as I was from a day's walking and eager to finally finish the Sheffield Round Walk. The final few miles were through some obviously exclusive streets. The large houses all had huge metal gates and walls. Once again I had the impression that the residents would rather not have the route pass through their select area because I didn't see a single acorn signpost and I had to follow a street map to reach where I knew the route terminates. I found a waymark on Psalter Lane. The end was in sight.

Towards Endcliffe Park and back to the start of the Round Walk.

On slightly wobbly legs, I made the last few hundred metres down steep streets, densely packed with houses and found myself, somewhat dazed, back at the start of the route at Endcliffe Park. I had done it. The Sheffield Round Walk might only have been 14 miles in length, completed over two separate walks covering two sections each, but I had found it  bursting with so many interesting things along the way. So much history, hidden away in plain sight. But that's the joy. It's all there waiting to be rediscovered.




Thank you to the Friends of Bishops' House for their warm welcome and kind permission to take photographs, for further information and to plan a visit, their website can be found here: http://www.bishopshouse.org.uk/